Oahu is the Mecca for all surfers. There is nowhere else in the world that even comes close to the intensity of surf along the stretch of coast from Haleiwa to Velzyland. From the world’s most famous big wave spot to the world’s most famous barrel to the world’s most famous hot dog wave, it’s all there and all within a few miles of each other. If you’re serious about your surfing and you haven’t spent a winter on the rock then you’ve really missed out on the ultimate test of your surfing ability. If you’ve ever thought about going read on and begin to tackle the fear.

The Hawaiian Islands chain sits slap bang in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, directly in the path of the biggest swells on earth.

The Waves:

We’ll start in the west;

Haleiwa is the main town on the North Shore as well as being a thumping right hander. The town has everything a surfer could want from Maccas to Wax. It’s a testing wave, with a solid wall and a ferocious inside bowl.

Haleiwa to Waimea Bay:  There are a bunch of fun waves along this stretch of the North Shore. Laniakea is a long right-hander that can handle a serious amount of swell; popular with locals it’s generally a mellow scene. Jockos and Chuns are more consistent than Laniakea  although as the swell jacks up so do the currents.

Waimea Bay: The spiritual home of big wave surfing. The fast jacking right-hander can handle swells up to around twenty-five feet (that’s Hawaiian) before the bay starts to close out. Although it has been somewhat superceded by tow spots like Jaws, it is still a proving ground for any paddle in big wave surfer. On smaller swells there is Pinball’s, a fun right and for the insane the famous Waimea shore break.

Log Cabins:  A pretty ferocious right-hander, less surfed than the other breaks it’s a high quality wave, just beware of the lava heads on the inside.

Off The Wall: One of the most photographed waves on the planet. A super fast right-hander breaks over sand and reef, pick the right wave and it’s the barrel of your life, the wrong one and it will drive you into the sand.

Backdoor: The right-hander that every other right-hander in the world is compared to. The right off the Banzaii Pipeline is one of the best, shallowest and most dangerous waves on the planet. Pick the right wave and you can expect a long round shack, get the wrong one and it’s time to shake hands with the reef, and if you’re really lucky get to see the inside of one of the caves. A tricky wave to surf, packed with locals and pros when on and full of water photographers, not one for the faint hearted.

Pipeline: The wave by which every other is judged. A thumping left barrel that will handle up to about fifteen feet. Reputations are made and destroyed here. It may have been outdone a bit by places like Chopes but there is nowhere like Pipe. When you factor in the locals, the crowds, the people watching and the history of the place it is the ultimate wave to master. It’s rarely uncrowded and locals rule the line-up with an iron fist. Treat the wave and locals with respect and there is the chance you may get the wave of a lifetime.

Pupukea to Rocky Point: There are three or four peaks along here that on smaller swells fire. They break over a mixture of sand and rock and offer a bit of an escape from the crowds. As the swell increases they can be as heavy as anywhere else with challenging paddle outs.

Rocky point: Rockies pulls in all swell and it’s well walled up lefts and rights are the ultimate manoeuvre wave on the North Shore, it gets busy, competitive and a bit aggro but it is the wave to bust out on.

Sunset: One of the great challenges in surfing is to learn how to surf Sunset good. Big powerful swells focus on the north and west peaks and throw up long steep walls and on the right direction swell a ferocious inside bowl. A real challenge for any surfer, Sunset is heavy and intimidating.

Backyards to Velzyland: Backyards offers an escape from the crowds, the outer reef is unpredictable but can be fun. Velzyland gets very localised, but is worth a look as it’s one of the best spots on the North Shore.

When to go?

October to March are the best times with November, December and January receiving the biggest and most consistent swells. It’s rarely really perfect though and it’s worth putting in a month or two to really score. Late season used to be a good time to escape the crowds, unfortunately everyone figured that out and it’s now pretty crowded.

How to get there?

Honolulu is the only way into the islands and to get there from the UK means two flights. One to LA or another US airport then another to the Islands. You’re looking at five hundred pounds plus to get there unless you’re prepared to risk a cheap ticket to the States and then hope you can find a last minute flight to Hawaii.

Where to stay?

It’s not cheap staying in Hawaii. If you’re there for a short while Foo’s backpackers is a decent option although still pricey. If you’re putting in some time it’s worth finding a room in someone’s house. Get yourself to the North Shore and check out the Foodland noticeboard, it’s the most cost effective way of living there.

What do I need to bring?

A pair of board shorts, a lot of respect and a very large sack! Normal stuff.Your usual shortboard is good for Rockies and small days but if you’re up for some serious juice it could be worth getting hooked up with some local boards made for the conditions. Bring a good first aid kit as well, you will need it.

How do I get around?

Three options. Hire a car, or even buy a wreck. Both can be pricey but with a bit of investigation you can get deals. It’s not really that necessary though, as you can walk everywhere. It’s only a couple of miles or so between Waimea and Sunset and there is a supermarket, what more do you need? The best option though is to get a pushbike with a good lock. You can hit all the breaks in a couple of minutes and do your shopping. It’s also cheap to get around the rest of the Island on the buses, although boards are not allowed.

What else is there to do?

If it goes flat, and it will, Oahu has more than enough to do. There’s heaps of tourist crap with more Polynesian villages to visit than in the rest of Polynesia. Honolulu is a big city and has malls and cinemas and is only a 45-minute one-dollar bus ride away. The North Shore itself can get a bit dull though and with a lot of testosterone fuelled men around things can get raucous so parties can be a bit dodgy.

What dangers do I need to watch out for?

Locals, when you’re in the water have the utmost respect for the local crew and the chances are you’ll get a few waves. You can understand why some of them get a bit touchy, when the whole world turns up at your surf spot for a couple of months something is going to give. On land petty and not so petty crime is prevalent, lock up your valuables and don’t leave anything lying around, it will go missing.

In the water, the reef, hold-downs and there are a few Tiger sharks about especially if you head out to some of the outer islands.

Factoids

Time: GMT -12hr

Language: English

Best season: November - March

Average temp in season: 23 C

Average Water temp in season: 24 C

Wave heights in season: 2 - 30 feet

Dominant swell direction: W/NW

Dominant wind direction: NE to SE

Shark factor: Moderate to high

Currency: US Dollar

Exchange Rate: $1.94 to the £

Rental Car Fees: $25 p/d

Bus: $1 for any journey

Second hand bike: $50

Budget Accommodation: $20 - $30 p/d

Hotels: $100 - $200 p/d

Flat for six people: $750

Average Price of meal: $15

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